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Noble Emilia. Rustic Romagna. Emilia Romagna - Italy's Culinary Capital?

2011-02-01T19:45:00.000-08:00

Author: John Giebler

By a stroke of luck I ended up in Emilia-Romagna, an Eden of fine cooking and savory ingredients. I'd been living in France for nearly a decade and, while the food captivated me, each trip to Italy begged another.

Growing up in the U.S, I had an idea of Italy as a European state, but now I was discovering its infinite provincial diversity. The nation has millennia of history, but it's only been a unified country since 1861. Twenty individual regions weave a multicolored patchwork of provinces, cities, and villages: bygone kingdoms and feudal states.

In 2000 I landed a job as a tour guide with a company based in Forlì. No idea where that was. I hefted my world atlas onto the kitchen table and thumbed through the index: F ... For ... Forlì. Italy sculpts more of a leg than a boot on the map. Forlì lies in Emilia-Romagna: a broad expanse spreading across her thigh like a garter. The region takes its name from the Via Aemilia — the 160-mile ancient Roman road stretching east, straight as a tightrope from Piacenza to the Adriatic Sea.

The Apennines, Italy's mountainous spine, arch east then south from the Mediterranean Sea to form the territory's lower border. Slanting vineyards and soft grassy slopes smooth north into orderly orchards. Parcels of kiwi populate the flat Po River plain. Renaissance towers, medieval ruins, and cypress spires cap rolling hills. And wavy grids of silvery olive trees garnish the slopes.

Emilia-Romagna's cultural heritage embraces Parma's powerfully arched cathedral, Bologna's leaning brick towers, and sixth-century mosaics in Ravenna; once the Western Roman Empire's capital. Pellegrino Artusi, the father of Italian cooking, grew up in Forlimpopoli.

But Emilia and Romagna are one only on paper. In the eighth century, the Frankish King Pippin III pawned off the troublesome southeastern regions on the papacy. Like twins separated at birth, they matured into individual personas. Romagnoli are 'chicken-farming country bumpkins,' say the 'snooty, know-it-all' Emiliani.

NOBLE EMILIA

Emilia prospered under centuries of wealthy, highborn families who maintained their prestige through lavish banquets. Parmesan cheese, balsamic vinegar, prosciutto di Parma, and bollito — an opulent dish of boiled meats — all hail from the region. Mortadella sausage too, even if I only knew its poor American cousin: baloney. In 1088, Europe's oldest university opened in Bologna la Grassa (Fat Bologna) — also Italy's culinary capital.

Lucky for me, it's the cradle of handmade pasta too: the centerpiece of weekly family get-togethers. Sunday mornings, Emiliana grandmothers pour mounds of flour on their table-sized cutting boards. Mixing in only eggs, they knead it into sticky yellow balls. With yard-long rolling pins, they flatten this sfoglia thin enough to see the board's wood grain. From the far edge, they curl the immense sheet into a tube, take a wide flat-bladed knife and slice off quarter-inch rounds. As the spirals unfold, classic tagliatelle emerge. The noodles' rough texture will soak up a rich ragu of slowly simmered ground meats, tomato sauce, red wine, and minced aromatic vegetables.

Local wines often sparkle to combat such rich food: the bubbles and acidity cut the fat. Lambrusco brought fame to the area in the 80s with, 'Riunite on ice, that's nice'. Natives call the sweeter version, 'the soft drink of wine', but the dry, sparkling red marries well with lasagna and heavy meat dishes. Malvasia and Barbera produce refreshing drinks too, as often as not with shimmering foamy heads.

RUSTIC ROMAGNA

Romagna looks south to Rome — from which it gets its name — and the Vatican. Subjected to the church's rule, Romagna maintained a simple and frugal character. Under the balmy Mediterranean sun, it evolved around seafood, rural gardens, grilled meats, and flat unleavened bread. While cream and butter inundate Emilia, Romagna cooks with its own olive oil.

Here, your fresh pasta might be eggless, such as twisty strozzapreti, aka 'strangle-the-priest'. Since housewives had to make extra for the church, the many stories behind the name all finish badly for the cleric. In one vivid version, the cook imagines wringing his neck as she twirls scraps of flat pasta between her palms.
I remember my first passatelli in brodo.

For generations, winter brings fierce competition to the mountain village of Rocca San Casciano — rivalry within towns runs strong too. The annual Festa del Falo divides the community in two rioni (neighborhoods): Mercato vs Borgo. Much like Siena's world-famous Palio horserace, the townspeople throw themselves 100into preparing the weekend celebration. It takes months to organize the food, parades, and the falo: two skyscraping bonfires that defy each other across a glacial stream.

The men invited me to help for a few wintry weekends. We collected truckloads of broom bush to erect the towers. Chainsaws buzzed as we sloshed through frosty mud up snowy hills. For hours, we collected branch after branch, the guys passing the time with exaggerated stories of what they did the night before. Finally at noon, we drove into town for lunch. The townswomen had prepared Passatelli: parmesan cheese and breadcrumbs squeezed into thick, golden noodles. More than a dozen of them floated in meat broth — the liquid left from our bollito: the next course. We ate from plastic bowls on makeshift tables, but the scalding soup was more welcome than a gourmet meal.

We washed down the meat with Sangiovese. This grape produces some of the country's top wines: Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, to name a few. Its origins lie somewhere in the Apennines, and Romagna's best bottles rival those from its more famous Tuscan neighbor. But most locals drink simple concoctions, dispensed in carafes at lunch for a few euros.

Italy's great diversity strikes me the most at this more rustic level. Centuries of competition keep traditions alive. The history, rivalry, and landscape reveal themselves in the people and on the table. Emilia's open stretches and wealthy history result in sumptuous meats and cheeses. Romagna's rustic character gives you stronger flavors and a whiff of the sea.

Is it the rivalry that keeps them so unique — and so delicious?

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/destinations-articles/emilia-romagna-italys-culinary-capital-4140977.html

About the Author
John Giebler is a certified sommelier and has worked in tourism since 2000. He develops and leads culinary tours for Insider Wine Tours. John grew up in the U.S. and has lived in France and Italy since 1998. Visit Insider Wine Tours for your next Vacation in Emilia-Romagna.

Lambrusco is only 100% Lambrusco (the wine) when made from at least 85% Lambrusco (the grape)

2011-01-29T23:55:00.000-08:00

The Hills of Castelvetro

True Lambrusco, Italy's most important varietal wine, is made from Lambrusco grapes.

As a matter of fact, Italian wine law stipulates that your bottle of True Lambrusco wine must be made from a minimum of 85% Lambrusco grapes.

Lambrusco is a typical example of a good relationship between a group of grapes and its territory: Fertile alluvial plain stimulate vigour, yield and characteristic quality traits of the vine.

How can you tell if you purchased a True Lambrusco or just a bottle of....red wine with bubbles?

The label of a True Lambrusco wine will list the words 'Lambrusco...DOC (or DOP)' or 'Lambrusco dell'Emilia IGT (or IGP) (Lambrusco Emilia IGT or IGP)'. If none of these particular definitions appear anywhere on the front or back label, you purchased a "red wine with bubbles" but not a bottle of True Lambrusco - even though the word 'Lambrusco' (the grape) may be listed on the label. Most true Lambruscos are blended with a maximum of up to 15% of Ancellotta, aka. Lancellotta, Malbo Gentile, Fortana, and/or Marzemino grapes - which are not Lambrusco grapes.

Confused?

Lambrusco is not only the name of a particular TYPE of wine but at the same time it is also the name of the grape that was used to make this type of wine.

Lambrusco (the type of wine) is a slightly fizzy (frizzante in Italian) red wine with high acidity and fresh fragrances, produced in a particular area of Italy. Specifically, in a region called Emilia Romagna even though the wine can only be made in Emilia and not in Romagna. Why? It's not only "the law" (DOC regulation) but also due to the special climate (continental) and special (very moist) soil of Emilia; another proof that there's a very strong relationship with a particular varietal and its territory.

And that's why you'll find all of the vineyards planted with lambrusco grapes in and around the major Emilian towns of Parma, Reggio Emilia, and Modena. According to various references over 60 different authochthonous Lambrusco GRAPES (falsely referred to as 'clones'), have been identified each with its own unique name. For example, one of the most important Lambrusco varieties is 'Salamino'. It may be listed as Lambrusco (the grape), Lambrusco salamino, or simply 'salamino'.

BTW, I must have read that "there are over 60 different Lambrusco grapes/clones" a hundred times, but I have never come across a list that actually lists the names of these 60 plus Lambrusco grapes. In the meantime I have done a little search on google and have actually come up with 24 clone names. If you know of another Lambrusco clone, please email me. I will be more than happy to add it to the list below:

(This list is wrong; see below)
1. Lambrusco dal Peduncolo Rosso, 2. Lambrusco Barghi, 3. Lambrusco dei Vivi, 4. Lambrusco La Termarina, 5. Lambrusco-Rossina, 6. Lambrusco Viadanese, 7. Lambrusco a Foglia Frastagliata (also Lambrusco-FF), 8. Lambrusco del Caset, 9. Lambrusco di Fiorano, 10. Lambrusco Gentile, 11. Lambrusco Maiolo, 12. Lambrusco Oliva 9, 13. Lambrusco Oliva 12, 14. Lambrusco di Alessandria, 15. Lambrusco Benatti, 16. Lambrusco Casetta, 17. Lambrusco d'German, 18. Lambrusco Pjcol Ross, 19. Lambrusco Salamino, 20. Lambrusco Marani, 21. Lambrusco Grasparossa, 22. Lambrusco di Sorbara, 23. Lambrusco Maestri, 24. Lambrusco Montericco.

Salamino

While writing this piece I've been in contact with Stefano Meglioraldi who works for the Lambrusco Consorzio in Reggio Emilia. He has pointed out that my Lambrusco list is only partially correct. (Confirming once more that lots of specific online information is wrong.)

Here are the TRUE 13 or maybe 17 Lambrusco grapes:

1. Lambrusco Salamino, 2. Lambrusco Marani, 3 Lambrusco Grasparossa, 4. Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Maestri, 6. Lambrusco Montericco, 7. Lambrusco dal Peduncolo Rosso, aka Pjcol Ross, 8. Lambrusco Barghi, 9. Lambrusco Viadanese, 10. Lambrusco a Foglia Frastagliata (aka Lambrusco-FF), 11. Lambrusco di Fiorano, 12. Lambrusco Oliva (or Lambrusco Maiolo), 13. Lambrusco Benetti, 14. Lambrusco Corbelli (DNA not established yet), 15. Lambrusco o uvalino (DNA not established yet), 16. Lambrusco Vittona (DNA not established yet), 17. Lambruschetto (DNA not established yet).

Grapes that were DNA tested and found to be not genetically linked to Lambrusco grapes:

Perla dei vivi, Termarina, Lambrusco Rossina, Lambrusco del Caset, Lambrusco Gentile, Lambrusco d'German, Lambrusco di Alessandria.

Conclusion:

- A fizzy wine labeled "Reggiano Rosso DOC" (Note: The word Lambrusco is missing) is produced from 50% to 60% Ancellotta grapes and therefore NOT a True Lambrusco (wine). It is a fizzy wine made from Ancellotta/Lancellotta grapes and blended with 40% to 50% of various other grapes, such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Malbo gentile, and Lambrusco grapes.

- A fizzy wine labeled Lambrusco/Merlot on the front (Note: Neither a 'DOC' nor an 'IGT' is indicated) is NOT a True Lambrusco (wine) but a sparkling red wine blend made from Lambrusco (grapes) and Merlot (grapes). The back label points out that this is a blend of 60% Lambrusco and 40% Merlot (if none of the grapes is at least 85% of the blend the percentages of each varietal used in the blend have to be listed on the label).

To obtain the truest of True Lambruscos look for the following appellations on the label:

Typical Lambrusco vineyard

True Lambrusco produced in and around MODENA:

Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC (DOP)
Must be made from a miniumum of 85% Grasparossa (Lambrusco) and a maxiumum of 15% of Fontana and Malbo Gentile (two blending grapes)

Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC (DOP)
Must be made from a minimum of 60% Sorbara (Lambrusco) and a maximum of 40% Salamino (Lambrusco)

Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce DOC (DOP)
Must be made from a minimum of 90% Salamino (Lambrusco) and a maximum 10% of Ancellotta and/or Fontana (two blending grapes)

Modena Lambrusco DOC (DOP)
Changed to a DOC from an IGT/IGP in 1999.
Must be made from a miniumum of 85% of either or a combination of Lambrusco Grasparossa, ~ Salamino, ~ di Sorbara, ~ Marani, ~ Maestri, ~ Montericco, ~ Oliva, ~ a Foglia Frastagliata (FF), and a maximum of 15% of Ancellotta, Malbo gentile, and/or Fortana.

True Lambrusco produced in and around REGGIO EMILIA:

Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (DOP)
Must be made from a minimum of 85% of either or a combination of Lambrusco Marani, ~ Salamino, ~ Montericco, ~ Maestri, ~ Sorbara, ~ Grasparossa, ~ Viadanese, ~ Oliva, ~ Barghi, and a maximum of 15% of Ancellotta, Malbo Gentile, Lambrusco a Foglia Frastagliata, and/or Fogarina

Reggiano Lambrusco Salamino DOC (DOP)
Must be made from a minimum of 85% Lambrusco Salamino and a maximum of 15% Ancellotta, Lambrusco Marani, Lambrusco di Sorbara and/or Malbo Gentile

Within the Reggiano DOC appellation it is possible to label specific "hillside vineyards" that are planted with specific Lambrusco grapes as follows:

DOC Colli di Scandiano e Canossa and Reggiano

Colli di Scandiano e Canossa
("Hills of Scandiano (town) and Canossa (town)")
Lambrusco Montericco DOC (DOP)
Must be made from a minimum of 85% Lambrusco
Montericco and a maximum of 15% Lambrusco
Marani, ~ Grasparossa, ~ Salamino, Malbo Gentile,
Ancellotta and/or Croatina.

Colli di Scandiano e Canossa Lambrusco Grasparossa DOC (DOP)
Must be made from a minimum of 85% Lambrusco Gasparossa and a maximum of 15% Lambrusco Marani, ~ Montericco, Ancellotta, Malbo Gentile, and/or Croatina.

Colli di Scandiano e Canossa Lambrusco DOC (DOP)
Must be made from a minimum of 85% of either or a combination of Lambrusco Maestri, Lambrusco Marani, Lambrusco Salamino, Lambrusco Barghi and a maximum of 15% Malbo Gentile, Marzemino, Croatina, Sgavetta, Termarina e Perla dei Vivi.

Lambrusco dell'Emilia IGT (IGP)
Must be made from a minium of 85% of either or a combination of Lambrusco Salamino, ~ di Sorbara, ~ Grasparossa, ~ Marani, ~ Maestri, ~ Montericco, ~ Viadanese, ~ Oliva, and a maximum of 15% of other grapes.

(Important Note: Lambrusco labeled "Emilia IGT" (or IGP) is often - but not always* - of very low quality -- yet it's still a True Lambrusco. (* if made by a top-quality producer - NOT a bottler.)

A list of some of the best and not so great Lambruscos available in the USA will be posted soon. At this time about 100 different Lambruscos (the Cellar Tracker list contains a number of double entries) are distributed. The list will include the percentages of grapes used and if the wine was pasteurized ('cooked') to 'kill' any left-over live yeast cells.

(updated/corrected on February 10th, 2011 and February 14th, 2011)

"Lambrusco may be one of Italy's most confusing wines - and that's saying a lot." - WSJ

2011-01-28T18:57:00.000-08:00

We enjoyed reading the great article about true lambrusco in the Wall Street Journal. As a matter of fact, we can't read enough about this Italian original. To further 'un-confuse' and demystify lambrusco we would like to add the following personal comments, notes, corrections, and observations:

1. WSJ: "...There are six different clones of the Lambrusco grape, with six different, multipart names, grown in subregions all over Emilia Romagna in the very heart of Italy. There's Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, home of the Grasparossa clone, where the wines are mostly big and dry. There's Lambrusco Reggiano, the largest region, which is also home to the famous cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano). It produces both sweet and dry wines, and mostly frizzante ones. And there's Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce - a clone said to resemble salami, in fact. Salamino wines tend to be simple and light...."

TL: Actually, there are over 60 known lambrusco clones (the rarest is 'Pjcol Ross') grown all over Emilia; even though the wine region/state is called Emilia Romagna, lambrusco cannot be made in Romagna - by law.

Grasparossa (lambrusco clone) di Castelvetro (a town in Emilia), Lambrusco Reggiano (Lambrusco from Reggio Emilia) and Salamino (clone) di Santa Croce (town) are zones, better known as DOCs (DOPs). The forth one, not mentioned in the story, is Sorbara (town and name of clone; named after town). While 3 of the DOCs have 'lambrusco grapes' in their denominations, Reggiano refers to the zone/region of Reggio Emilia.

Grasparossa is not only planted in Castelvetro; Salamino not only in Santa Croce. All classic lambruscos are 'frizzante' and produced throughout the region.

The two most famous still red wines made from lambrusco grapes, 'Moro del Moro' and 'Vigna del Picchio' (both made by Paola Rinaldini), are actually from Reggio Emilia.

Every lambrusco can be 'darkened' by adding Ancellotta (a.k.a. Lancellotta) - if the DOC/DOP allows it. Ancellotta is NOT a lambrusco clone.

Almost all sweet and even some dry lambruscos (especially those destined for export) are pasteurized. Most, but not all. A fact that should be known to consumers. (To find out if your sweet/dry lambrusco was 'cooked', contact the producer, bottler or importer.)

2. WSJ: "...the 2008 Opera 02 from Modena, was very dark and aggressively tannic. "Lambruscop is a fun wine - it shouldn't be so fierce," Mike said."

TL: Believe it or not, THIS IS the preferred style of most lambrusco drinkers in Emilia. What's 'fierce' to one person may be 'fun' to drink by another. Sure, 'firece' lambrusco is not everybody's cup of tea - you can count us among those - but it's certainly not a 'flaw' or 'fault'.

3. WSJ: "...It doesn't have foam," was the first thing he said when I poured him a glass. "A good lambrusco has to have foam.""

TL: The amount of 'foam' (or froth) in a glass of lambrusco is not indicitative of the quality of any lambrusco and not comparable with a beer head. As a matter of fact, the effervescent froth in a glass of lambrusco should start to dissipate as soon as the glass if filled.

4. WSJ: "...This sparkling lambrusco is a bit lighter and a bit earthier and a bit funkier than the other four wines (it's also an organic wine, made without the addition of sulphites)...."

TL: 'Funkiness' in a wine is a wine flaw in any 'normal' or 'organic' wine. Wineries that produce 'funky organic wines' produced 'funky normal wines' before they turned 'organic'.

5. WSJ: "...His one Lambrusco is [a] Bianco, which he likens to Prosecco - but unlike Prosecco, it's no easy sell..."

TL: Lambrusco is a RED wine. White lambrusco is as much a lambrusco as white zinfandel is zinfandel.

Want to drink a 'white fizzy wine'? Emilians have more than one which they will proudly serve to you: Malvasia frizzante, Ortrugo frizzante, Moscato frizzante, Spergola frizzante...but they'll NEVER serve a 'white Lambrusco' at home.

'White lambrusco' has not tradition and was strictly 'invented' for the sweet white wine drinker in the USA (a majority consumed white wines back then) and dirt cheap wine drinkers in England in the 70s.

Are there people who enjoy white zinfandel? Yes, of course, and may they continue to enjoy them; the same goes for 'white lambrusco' drinkers. But it doesn't change the fact that zinfandel and lambrusco are both classic RED wines. By the way, 'white lambrusco' is as 'rare' as 'white zinfandel'.

A side note: A review of a bottle of lambrusco should always include the percentages and names of the lambrusco clones used in that wine (pronto: 30% salamino, 30% marani, 30% maestri, 10% ancellotta and if the wine is estate bottled or was made by a bottler). This is the only way consumers can learn about the subtleties and differences of the various lambruscos on US retail shelves. Frizzante wines made mostly from Ancellotta (not a lambrusco clone) or other non-lambrusco grapes are not at all lambruscos but 'vino frizzantes' or in plain English: Red wines with bubbles.